Newsarticle by
Barton Joffrion
County Agent, LCES
LSU AgCenter
Many residents in our area have had successes and some failures growing a fruit trees in the back yard. The success of a home fruit orchard is influenced greatly by the site selected. This is the most critical step for success! A deep, well-drained soil with good surface and 
subsurface drainage is important.
Fruit plants will not grow well on water logged soils. This is a definite challenge with our heavy, poorly drained soils. I would suggest taking a soil sample before you make any decisions on planting. The location should also provide enough sunlight for proper growth and development of the plants. You may have to build a pitcher’s mound to provide adequate drainage for the root system.
For the beginner, I would suggest you choose from the following list of low maintenance species: citrus, fig and persimmon. Citrus trees are evergreen and do not require much maintenance for success. The Owari variety of satsuma is an excellent choice along with the Washington variety navel orange. Ruby Red and Rio Red grapefruit varieties along with the Meyer lemon variety produce well in our area. The Nagami or Meiwa kumquats do well are the most cold hardy citrus.
Cold weather can cause freeze damage on citrus and 26 degrees Fahrenheit and below is the critical level that can cause major damage to the integrity of the tree.
Figs are another species that requires less attention. This is a deciduous plant that goes dormant during this time of the year. Recommended varieties are Celeste, Brown Turkey, LSU Purple and LSU Gold.
The Japanese persimmon can also be grown with limited attention. It is also deciduous and the recommended varieties are Tanenashi, Eureka, Fuyu (non-astringent) and Suruga (non-astringent).
Citrus and figs are self-fruitful and require no other varieties for pollination. In some fruit varieties, the pollen producing or staminate (male) blossoms, which never produce fruit, are borne on separate trees from the pistillate (female) or fruit producing blossoms. In cases such as this, it is necessary to have at least one tree with male flowers that serves as a pollinator. Trees with only staminate flowers will normally pollinate a number of trees with female blossoms. The persimmon is a good example of this type.
Now through February is the best time to transplant either bare-rooted or containerized fruit trees. Bare-rooted fruit trees should be planted early in the dormant season because this allows the soil to settle and the roots to become established and begin developing before the top growth begins in the spring.
Dig a hole large enough and deep enough to permit setting the plant without bending, breaking or crowding the roots. Prune roots of new plants only where necessary to remove damaged or dead roots that are very long and out of proportion with other roots.
Place loose topsoil in the bottom of the hole and set the plant in the hole upright at the depth it was growing in the nursery. Then fill the hole about two thirds full with pulverized topsoil so it will settle around the roots. It is advisable to back fill with the same soil removed from the hole; this will eliminate internal drainage problems. At this point, finish filling the hole with water to help pack the soil. After the water has soaked in, finish filling the hole with topsoil. Do not apply fertilizer at the time of planting. In the spring after growth begins, one half pound of a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or 6-12-6, or its equivalent, is beneficial. The best way to determine plant needs is through a proper soil analysis.
Proper Pruning
Late December to early January is the best time to prune evergreens and summer flowering shrubs and trees. Do not prune spring blooming plants such as azaleas as you could be cutting off potential blossoms. As you prune plants, try not to butcher them. Maintain the natural plant form. Make clean, even cuts and leave as few stubs as possible. Thin the bushy plants from within.
Now through February are good times to prune landscape trees, deciduous and evergreen plants that do not bloom in the spring. Crape Myrtle plants get pruned improperly many times. It is important to remember that they are not to be topped. I would recommend removing any limbs that are touching or rubbing on other limbs. This will improve air circulation within the plant and reduce disease problems. You can also remove any sucker growth coming up from the ground. Remember to maintain the natural form of the plant.
Prior to pruning, remember these tips:
1. Prune only when necessary.
2. Use sharp pruning tools and equipment.
3. Prune hedges so that the base is wider than the top.
4. Remove any dead, diseased, dying and decaying branches.
5. Cut back to major branches or limbs, do not leave stubs.
6. Prune to enhance plant characteristics such as bark coloring or flowering.
Question of the Week: When is Arbor Day in Louisiana and what is a recommended landscape tree that will do well in our area?
Answer: Arbor Day is celebrated on the third Friday in January in Louisiana and for 2008; it will be celebrated on Friday, January 18th. According to Dr. Allen Owings with the LSU AgCenter, crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia indica, Lagerstroemia indica x faurei) continue to be one of the most widely used landscape trees in the southeastern United States. A few recommended varieties are: Natchez, Sioux, Muskogee, Tonto, Acoma, and Tonto.
If you have any questions or need more information, please give me a call at 985-873-6495. My email: bjoffrion@agcenter.lsu.edu or visit our website at www.lsuagcenter.com.
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